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My Pre_Y2K Chapter on Guns.  Don't let the date bother you.  This represents a good over-view of how the beginning hunter or survivalist might start.  Also represented are mistakes I made in coming along.  This is original material, and you may share it as you will, including the source links.

 

Chapter 13 Guns

 

INTRODUCTION

 

     There is a separate chapter, Chapter 14, about the twelve-gauge-shotgun. If you are only going to buy one gun, buy a twelve-gauge.

 

     People are fond of quoting: [Isaiah 2:4 NIV] "They will beat their swords into plowshares and their spears into pruning hooks." Did you know there was another verse: [Joel 3:9-10] NIV "Beat your plowshares into swords and your pruning hooks into spears." ?

 

     We are not preparing for war as such, but for farming. That is my opinion. It was drawn after looking at what the LORD had me buy. I always just ask the LORD and get what HE says. You may need an entirely different weapon than your brother does. Do not buy any weapon, or any type of weapon without the LORD leading you. Father knows best.

 

     The strongest leading I have had is to set up towards hunting. Bolt action and pump action have been favored.

 

MILITARY RIFLES.

 

     This one causes a problem. Every time I bought a rifle I wanted some semi - automatic killer. The LORD led otherwise. Kept pointing to some farmers' rifle. Father knows best. If you are going to figure on being para - military you have a problem. Takes large stores of ammunition, and those you are trying to oppose have much better weapons and much more ammunition.

 

EDITORIAL

 

     Beat up Your Rifle, Take it into the Woods and Get Scratches on it! Scratches on Your Stock Will Not Hurt You! Damage to the Blued Finish, Will Not Hurt You!. Beat it up, Drop it on the Ground! It Is a Tool, Not a Work of Art! THE ONE THING YOU DO NOT WANT TO BEAT UP IS THE END OF THE BARREL. THE LAST PART, WHERE IT IS CROWNED, IS WHAT DETERMINES HOW THE BULLET FLIES. IF YOU DAMAGE THE END OF THE BARREL YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO SHOOT ACCURATELY.


THE 22 RIFLE

 

     A twenty-two rifle is possibly the most useful for all-around working and small game. Some people feel it is only useful for target shooting. However, there is a variety of 22 ammunition that is called Hyper Velocity and it will do better on small game. It has more powder packed in the case, and hence more power.

 

22 MAGNUM

 

     Large bore rifles are great, but hard to shoot. The 22 is the working rifle of farmers. That is where we are going, to farming, or a farm - like situation. One weapon most people over - look is the 22 Magnum. It has great knock - down power, yet is quiet and easy to shoot, like a normal 22. Ask the LORD. This year, 1999, Ruger has made a type of rifle that shoots 22WMR and they call it a "Garden Rifle."

 

     I have found a 22 WMR to be more useful than a 22 rifle. They say more deer have been killed with the 22 WMR [22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire] than with any other type of round. That is, in other parts of the country. It is illegal to hunt deer in North Carolina with that weapon. Poachers use at night, to work quietly, it all the time. They try to hit it in the neck. Fifty rounds can cost $7 instead of $1 or $2 for the standard twenty-two. A good one is the Marlin Model 882SS 22 Cal. W.M.R. Stainless Steel Bolt Action Rifle (22 Magnum), clip fed. http://www.marlinfirearms.com/22mag.html#882ss

 

PLEASE NOTE THESE MODEL NUMBERS AND LINKS HAVE CHANGED AND REFER TO Pauls Guns Manual 

 

    One good feature of this stainless-steel rifle is that it utilizes a fiber-optic front blade on the sights. The day-glow orange gathers light. Taking a cue from them, I painted day-glow orange on the front blade of the sights on my other rifles. Found I could work far beyond normal time as the light faded. Highly recommend it.

 

     22 LONG RIFLE HYPER VELOCITY

 

     22 Long Rifle Hyper Velocity ammo will change the way you think about your twenty-two. This extra-powerful twenty-two ammunition is well suited to hunting, having more power and knock-down capacity. CCI's brand name is the Stinger. Remington's is called the Viper. There seems to be variety called Mini-Mag that I will discuss in a minute or two.

 

     You can NOT turn a twenty-two into a high-powered rifle by using Hyper Velocity ammunition. You can make it more deadly, and take it out of the range of target-practice only. One morning I was using some normal 22 ammunition at thirty yards. I had a scope on it and had gotten it completely accurate. Switching to the 22 Hyper Velocity ammunition, I found the bullets were hitting the target fully two inches higher. That means straighter shooting and more retained power. Personally, if I had a semi-automatic 22 loaded with Stingers, I would not be afraid to use it for self defense in the confines of a house. I would want to empty the gun. Enough said? Get some stingers! About three dollars for fifty rounds. Vipers are about $1.60 for fifty rounds.

22 AMMUNITION CONFLICT, "MINI MAG"

 

     If you are using 22 WMR, called 22 magnum DO NOT USE AMMUNITION CALLED MINI-MAG IN IT. That ammunition is clearly labeled for use in 22 long-rifle guns only. You could possibly jam your weapon or explode the barrel.       THERE IS NO SHORT VERSION OF 22 MAGNUM. 22 MINI-MAG IS NOT FOR USE IN 22 MAGNUM. I have some friends who tried this and fortunately, could not get the MINI-MAGS to load in the 22 magnum. The Grace of God saved them that time. Thank you JESUS!


LARGE - BORE RIFLES

 

     The first weapon the LORD lead me to buy is a 30.06 Bolt - Action - Winchester Rifle with a four - power Weaver scope. A 30.06 is a high powered rifle with a lot of kick. When you shoot it, it recoils a lot. One has to learn to use it. You can hunt any kind of large game with this kind of rifle. Really big game hunters will probably use something bigger.

 

     If you were to shoot, say, a varmint in your garden, it would probably be small. There is no telling where the bullet from a 30.06 would go after it destroyed the varmint. I prefer the 22 magnum for that duty. Poachers here, and other people in the rest of the country, regularly use the 22 magnum for killing deer.



GUN CLEANING.

 

     A gun-cleaning kit is needed. The "Universal Cleaning Kit" that Wal - Mart sells is usable. It is about seven dollars. Buy a holder for twenty-two caliber patches. For every type of gun you have you will need a bore brush, and a patch holder. If you run out of the solvent and oil that comes with the kit penetrating oil alone (not WD-40) cleans and lubricates.

 

     Run your rod through the barrel with care! That can not be stressed enough. Damage can result by forcing it through. People say more barrels are damaged by improper cleaning than anything else.

 

     You typically run a brush through the barrel with some solvent on it. Some people say only go from one direction. I usually don't get too "choked up" about these things and just scrub it back and forth. I do it carefully, though. After running the brush through you run some small patches through, until the patch you run through is clean. Oil the patch before running it through. The last patch should be dry, intended to remove any excess oil left in the barrel.

 

     You should clean your gun after each use, or as soon as possible. It protects your investment and helps keep it accurate. If you are in a situation such that you can not clean it, than don't worry about it. They still work if you do not clean them. It is NOT the best for them.

 

END OF THE BARREL.

 

     If you want to REALLY RUIN your weapon then beat up the end of the barrel, (the end you point at things.) That last part is essential in getting the bullet on target. Jamming your cleaning rod into the end of the barrel can damage it. Just let the rod run through easily. If you wish, and the guns' configuration allow it, go from the back.


PENETRATING OILS.

 

WD- 40

 

     I used to be a firm believer that WD-40 was the only kind of oil you needed on a gun. Would not believe the owners of gun shops when they said that it would gum up the action of a firearm. That means it will practically glue it shut, over time. Don't store your weapons with WD-40 sprayed in the workings. It will work well to make a varnish-like coat over the stock and the barrel.

 

     I told my dad about that, when he was alive, and he would not believe me. He went to get his rifle, and was surprised to find he could hardly pull the bolt back! He usually kept it stored in his closet and had saturated it with WD-40. Every time I visited him, over the next couple of years, I would have to work on un-jamming that rifle. You could not even pull the trigger at first. I had to take it apart. The WD-40 had glued everything together. After his death it still took time to work the action loose on that rifle. Don't use WD-40 on the action, or working parts, of your firearms if you expect to store them for a while. The next two oils work.

 

     Use any penetrating oil specifically made for guns. (I often use Rem oil). These kinds of oil will protect the firearm and not form gum or varnish in the workings.

 

     AMS OIL METAL PROTECTOR.

 

     I buy it from a friend and it is the best I have seen, bar none. I have a truck with a tool box and have sprayed my hand tools with this stuff. It forms a durable, weather-proof finish and out- does WD-40 or any commercial gun oil in the field. It works the best on firearms and their actions that I have seen. The only problem I have with it is that if I take it out to the construction site and use it, every-one wants to borrow it. I get mine from John and Frances Sherrer, Email: john_sherrer@bellsouth.net

 

OILING YOUR SCOPE

 

     As a bonus to those who have read this far, I once decided that proper gun care included spraying some of that dreaded WD-40 under the caps that cover the adjustment screws on my first Rifle Scope. All that did was cause the oil to penetrate the interior of the scope and permanently fog it. That completely ruined it. Do not do that. I would wipe my scope with an oily rag only, and not spray it with penetrating oil at all.


SCOPE MOUNTED

 

     Today we are going to talk about rifle scopes a bit. As always, I direct my words towards the beginner. If you already know that you need a scope for your weapons, or what kind of scope you need, then you don't need this paper.

 

     The first question is "Why do I need a scope?" The answer is that a scope improves your chances of hitting any target. That is, if you use what is called a 4 x 32 (four by thirty-two) variety. That gives you good game and varmint hunting magnification and maintains a wide field of view. That means that you can see a lot through your reticle. When you look through the hole with the cross-hairs in it, a large area is visible.

 

     I wear two pairs of glasses, though not at once. One is for reading, one for working. I work construction and hate bi-focals anyway, having worn them for a while in my youth. Yesterday I was able to focus my scope to work with my "distance" glasses, quite a boon to me. Sometimes I can no longer focus on my targets and my iron sights at the same time. Now, when I throw the rifle to my shoulder, what I see through my scope is in focus. Praise God!

 

     Fixed sights are sometimes called "iron sights." There is usually some adjustment even in "fixed sights." I am trying to get you used to some shooting terms.

 

     If your scope is zeroed in accurately, wherever the little black lines, called cross-hairs, appear, you can put a bullet. That is a sort of generalization, but we are talking about practical shooting, not competition.

 

     I bought a Simmons model 1033 Aluminum Scope at Wa l-Mart yesterday for fifty dollars. It came with the mounts to fit any 22 and is designed for a 22 magnum. That means it is tougher. It is also a one-inch scope. That means the thing you look through is one inch across. A standard scope for a 22 has only a little circle of vision, and is usually not too tough.

 

     You are better off staying away from the cheapest scopes. You get a lot better quality spending a little more money. I would recommend the one I just bought for any, and all, twenty-two's.

 

     Now, you might observe, to yourself, that you don't know how to use a scope. Buy the one I recommended, that is if the LORD agrees this is coming from Him, and put it away. That is what I did with mine. I got it adjusted for one rifle, got it generally zeroed in, focused it for my use, and put it back in the box. One advantage of the Simmons model 1033 is that it came in a good little styrofoam lined box. After reinforcing with grey tape it made a perfect little storage and transportation box.

 

     Now, I will have to readjust the scope when I re-mount it. For now it is here, and out of the way. Things may be sort of rough at first in the future, and a scope is NOT good for snap shooting or at night. Hitting the scope can either damage it or cause it to become out of adjustment.

 

     I recommend the aluminum scope mentioned because it is very light and easy to care for. There is no need to match it to your rifles' blued barrel. It won't matter that the scope is silver and the barrel black. We are talking about practical shooting.

 

     I have a more expensive Swift Scope that is blued, and I bought it from a gun-store. Also one inch and 4 x 32, for it I bought two sets of mounts, one for the twenty-two and one for my high-powered rife. The scope can be used on both. If you are going to use you scope on your hunting rifle you need to find the particular mounts that will fit it.


SLING MOUNTED

 

     Your rifle will not be of much use to you without a sling on it. You can not even walk over to your targets and work with them if you have to keep your rifle in one hand. If you set it down, even empty, you will want to be sure to point it in a neutral direction.

 

     If it is sling mounted you can hang it over your shoulder. Some weapons can be loaded with them hanging on your shoulder by the sling.

 

     Many rifles come with sling mounts on them. They will look like little knobs with small holes in them, for the un-initiated. I have mounted those little things on my own rifles. They never seem to go on exactly perfectly, but work well anyway. If you are a perfectionist, don't ask me to mount the screw-in part of a sling mount on your rifle.


NON-SLIP RIFLE STOCKS.

 

     This is an idea on how to eliminate the high-shine and slipperiness of some rifle stocks. Remove the surface of the wood with sandpaper taking off the old finish off. If the rifle stock has checkering, it will take some work.

 

     Use 60 grit - sand - paper. Go in the direction of the grain only. After you have achieved a uniform pattern, finish sanding with 120 grit sand-paper. This produces a surface that is relatively smooth, but has the deep scratches from the heavy grit 60 sandpaper in it. It will be non - slip.

 

     You can re-stain your stock and put a varnish or sealer of some type on it. For one of mine I stained it, used and oil finish, and finally a paste-wax finish. Part of the intent is to remove the high-shine from your stock. This process, done for utility not beauty, often exposes a beautiful grain pattern. As well, your rifle, that is now more user-friendly, looks more like part of the woods.

 

     One of my two rifles I did not do this to already has a synthetic stock and a stainless-steel barrel. The pistol is stainless over a plastic base and handle. Both of them do well in the rough-and tumble of the outdoors. The stainless they make now is not really that shiny and the modern plastics have a consistency much like metal. They have the advantage of not needing the maintenance of wood.


PRACTICAL RIFLE PRACTICE.

 

     I like to save the caps that come off of spray-paint cans for rifle practice. It is easier, and more fun, to try to hit them and knock them down than to punch holes in paper targets. Since I work construction and we often use spray paint to mark off building lines, I seem to be able to collect a lot of them. The tops from any type of spray can will work, the smaller ones requiring more practice. You get to the point that you will save any little plastic thing to use as a knock-down target.

 

     Now, you adjust the sites on your rifle backwards. If you are shooting too high, you lower the rear sights. If you are shooting to the left, you want to move the rear sight to the right, and so on.

 

     If you are shooting sort of all over the place, then you need practice. Once most of your bullets hit in a particular area, then you can adjust your sites. You can use the spray can tops for that if you can see where you are hitting on the ground behind them, but most people use paper targets to get their weapons "zeroed" in.

 

     MAKE SURE YOU ALWAYS HAVE RIFLE OR PISTOL PRACTICE AT A PLACE THAT HAS A HILL BEHIND THE TARGETS. THAT IS NOT TOO DIFFICULT IN NORTH CAROLINA. BULLETS CAN TRAVEL A LONG WAY, EVEN ALONG THE GROUND, AND A HIGH BANK WILL CATCH ANY STRAYS.

 

     A good bench mark is to practice until you can consistently hit five spray-can tops with a seven-round clip of bullets. I mean the bullets, not the clip. Once I can do that at thirty yards, about forty paces for me, then I figure the gun is zeroed. About half that distance works for pistols.

 

     Start at twenty paces for any weapon at first. You have to crawl before you walk.

 

     You want to be able to hit a squirrel at thirty yards with your rifle, even if your rifle is too large to hit squirrels with. The paint-can top takes the place of wild-life. They make about a two-inch target.

 

     It is not really necessary to be able to hit an insect at that range. I don't think that the LORD requires that.

 

     Remember what God did for Daniel. Daniel had practiced with his sling, but God guided the aim.


AMMO

 

     You will need extra ammunition. Think about shooting every day for seven years. You are not preparing for a fire-fight. Jesus is Lord.

 

     22 Ammo long-rifle hollow point ammunition may be the most useful kind of ammunition in the future. An excellent barter item. It is inexpensive now and will be priceless later.

 

     I used to buy a box of ammunition for my high powered rifle from time to time. It did not take that long to build up enough to kill a deer every day for a year. Little things add up.

 

PLUS P AMMO

 

      I would like to recommend a type of ammunition for the thirty-eight. They make a 38 special +P ammo. This ammunition has more power than the common 38 caliber ammo. To me, it seems close to 357 magnum. (Avid gun nuts will already know that you can fire 38 caliber ammo in a 357. The caliber of a 38 is actually .357 inches. A 357 Magnum is a souped-up 38.) If you are going to fire 38 special +P your pistol needs to be a modern one, and strongly built. They make Plus P ammunition for nine - millimeter as well.

 

SHOT SHELLS

     I used to have shot - shells for several weapons. The kind of shotshells other than for shotguns. Fired off all of them to get rid of them. I had nine millimeter and 22 magnum shells. The nine millimeter ones jam. They don't have enough powder to drive the slide back and chamber the next round. The ones for the 22 magnum are not efficient unless the target is right in front of the barrel.

 

     I once had a 357 magnum and bought shotshells for it. Looking down the barrel, luckily, happened to notice the plastic part of the shotshell still there. I don't know, but am told that anything still in the barrel can cause the next fired shell to explode.


AMMUNITION STORAGE

 

     Twenty - years ago I bought a couple of thousand rounds of 22 ammunition. I gave some to my father. Five years later I fired off my remaining rounds. There was a one-in-ten misfire rate.

 

     My dad gave me the ammunition from the original batch, back, about ten years after my firing up all those old rounds. NONE OF IT MISFIRED. After five years of storing the ammo loose, it misfired one-in-ten times. Identical ammo, with the same batch number, stored those five years, and an additional ten years, HAD NO MISFIRES.

 

     One should store ammo in ammo boxes and keep out the moisture. You need a desiccant, or drying agent to do that. Called silica gel, and it is available at a craft stores. They use it to dry flowers. It is also available at Wal -Mart, in the dried flower section.

 

     A white powder with some blue crystals in it, when the powder has absorbed all the moisture it can, the crystals change color. You can bake it on a pan in the oven and dry it out. It is then used again. If you repeat this, you will eventually remove all the moisture from your container.

 

     You can get some tiny jars and put the powder in that. After punching holes in the lid, put in a piece of paper so that moisture can pass through and the powder would not spill out.


OUT OF SIGHT.

     And out of mind. Had some guns stolen from me a few years ago. They were in a locked box in the center of the room. The thieves missed a pistol because it was in a box that you would not expect to see it in. From there I have developed a lot of strategies to do the same thing. I think that LORD used that incident to teach me.

 

     If I elaborate, I destroy my whole system of preventing thievery. Twice this week, someone has pointedly said the phrase, "Out of sight, out of mind."

 

     I believe the LORD has used that to tell me how to talk about this subject. To use an example from a horrible, evil man, let me talk about the Son of Sam killer. (Nothing gory, I assure you.) When they arrested him, they could not find his gun for a couple of days. He had carried out to his car in a brown paper bag and the police could not find it. They did not find it until he told them it was in the bag. The police had searched the car up and down and had ignored the bag. They had not expected to find it there.

Out of sight, out of mind.

 

     A couple of the things I did with my old guns put me in jeopardy. Not knowing any better, I carried my rifle in an out of the house in an open manner. I did not know then that you can conceal a weapon on your own property. The police told me that.

 

     If I wanted to take a pistol to my truck I could put it in a bag and do so, on my own property. Once in the truck, and we have left the property, it can no longer be concealed.

 

     You can hide your firearms any where you like in your own house. That is not illegal yet. Let the LORD show you.


THE "DAVID" AIMING SYSTEM

 

     I once shot the collar of off an intruding dog who had impregnated my dog. The LORD had prompted me to shoot and I asked HIM to guide my aim. The large German Shepherd was standing about twenty yards away and facing me. There was no scope on the rifle, only open sights.

 

     At the last second my aim moved to one side and I thought I missed him. The dog ran off howling. When I went to where he had been standing I found his collar and some hair. The gun used was a 30.06. There was no blood around. If it had done anything but grazed him there would have been evidence.

 

     One night I leveled my 30.06 at some wild dogs who had been in my trash. The next morning I found that I had shot one of them perfectly through the heart. Only thing was, I had not even seen him. Only fired in the general direction and "from the hip." It appeared one was leaping to the side. When I went out the next morning I was surprised to find a dead dog with one small entry wound right where his heart had been, and a three - inch exit wound.

 

     The first time I shot a twelve - gauge - shotgun someone handed it to me. We had turtles in our duck pond who where eating the ducklings right in front of people. I ran down to where the big turtle was and you could not even hear me. It was strange, indeed. When I fired, the pattern of the shotgun completely covered the turtle, and he sank. His head remained floating on the pond. No more ducklings killed.

 

     The last time I went squirrel hunting I leveled my 22 magnum at a squirrel about forty yards away. However far away she was, she was no bigger than the "blade" at the end of the barrel. When I went down there, she had a hole one - half inch below her ear. A perfect shot.

 

     So now you believe I am either a great shot or a large liar. Neither of those is true. The LORD guided my aim. Depend on HIM to guide yours if and when it is needed. I have more examples of HIM doing that for me.

 

     Daniel knew he was in covenant with GOD and was not afraid of Goliath. "God is our refuge, and God is our strength, a very present help in trouble, therefore I will not fear, though the Earth be removed and the mountains be cast into the midst of the sea."

 

 

Pauls Guns Manual

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The day I came to the LORD, before I knew what a vision was, I saw myself walking through a devastated United States of America.  You need to accept Jesus as LORD and make what preparations He would have you make.  This site has basic only, survival information, hence the name Survival Primer, or beginning teaching book.  Most of the information has been gleaned from the internet.  The entire site, Survival and Christian, is saved to a single CD disk  that you can own.   The Christian teaching is from my church, and is original to it.  God has changed my life through the ministry of my church. God will change yours, through Jesus Christ, if you let Him.  My prayer is that God lead you into all truth, and that the abiding love that is expressed through His Son, Jesus Christ, come to rule and abide and infill your life, perfectly. Paul.

 

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